Listed in Cafes
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Atlas Espresso Bar has quietly creeped into a neighbourhood that doesn't quite feel like one yet. The bright and minimalist room is on Front Street, just west of Portland in a rapidly changing area that is made up mostly of condos. New businesses are only now beginning to pop up.
"We want Atlas to have a coffee pocket vibe, a little bit of an oasis," co-owner Sandrine Kwan tells me. "I have a lot of people already saying 'I feel like I'm in your kitchen.'"
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I believe her. There are doggie treats at the door. A regular - a St. Bernard named Korra - stops at the door, not walking away until she gets a bite.
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As for the humans, the kitchen is open facing them, with the espresso machine off to the side so that it's not a barrier between customers and the barista.
Kwan opened the spot with two others, Bruce Dawson and Zion Forrest Lee. Dawson co-owns Kensington Market's
Handlebar and Lee recently bought
Mercury Espresso Bar in
Leslieville.
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They have brought in chef
Dale Fraser to collaborate on creative food and drink specials. They're planning on tasty initiatives such as weekend takeout picnic baskets,
cinq a sept specials, a pastry of the week and a weekly
high tea.
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I've now visited the cafe three times and on each occasion there's been something new. I get the feeling the owners are not used to being in such a new neighbourhood and are trying everything possible to draw in residents.
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My fave drink so far is their cortado ($3.25). It's smooth and creamy, needs no sugar and is topped with a perfect dollop of crema.
Atlas has also developed its own brew with
Trebilcock coffee in Pickering, a traditional medium/dark roast Lee describes as tasting like "sweet tobacco, salted caramel and dark hazelnut chocolate."
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The espresso-based drinks, ($2.75-$4.00) are only sold in eight-ounce cups. Freshly-squeezed fruit juices are delivered every midday by
Chasers. Pastries, sandwiches and veggie options are also on the menu.
On the shelves are several copies of "The World Book" - those hardcover encyclopedias that had 31 editions just to get through the alphabet. It was our internet when there wasn't the internet.
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Atlas is trying to do a bit of everything, with a
mobile app and even a line of
exfoliating bath products made with their coffee grains.
What should you do? Try the coffee.
Writing by Diana Pereira. Photos by Jesse Milns.