Listed in Grocery Stores

In what is surely a nod to their cramped kitchen as opposed to any advice received from Gordon Ramsey, Tierra Azteca offers a small (tiny really) weekday menu that barely comprises a whole page (two if you count the photos). Six dishes are available, offered with a choice of beef, pork, veggies or chicken though a weekend menu (featuring tripe amongst other things) is slightly more extensive.


The mushroom Sopes are bursting with flavour, deep and rich, and would appeal even to a non-mushroom lover. They're topped by the other Sope on the plate (the corn, onion and peppers iteration) which is also on a bean base and bathed in a delicious and aromatic sauce and highlighted by perfectly cooked green pepper.

The El Pastors don't disappoint, with pork as flavourful as you could hope for, and tender to boot. The Steak tacos are, in comparison, a disappointment. The steak isn't bad - a little tough with some flavour - but isn't enough to carry the dish, even with the addition of a spicy and flavourful salsa verde provided on the side.

Tierra Azteca's Chilaquiles are topped by two thinly sliced cuts of steak - chicken or eggs are the other options - and a very standard and perfunctory side salad. The beans are a non-entity, larded with fat and somehow possessing very little in the way of flavour. The steak is well cooked and a bit plain Jane, but is elevated by the strong pairing with the tortillas (which are phenomenal) and some Mexican crema. Ultimately the individual components of the dish that work are enough to outweigh the ones that don't.
The vibe at Tierra Azteca is very back-roomish, as the restaurant portion of the operation is in fact (not quite literally) a back room. The restaurant doubles as the rear of a busy grocery store with an a array of Mexican and Latin American products that can be hard to find around Toronto, in particular a great array of peppers. And it's always nice to find a grocery store that carries cacti.

Still, the charming nature of the food - authentic, and often delicious - is enough to overlook some misfiring elements in both the dishes and the overall dining experience, and large portions and cheap prices - nothing on the menu is over twelve dollars - make this place one of Toronto's better kept Mexican secrets.

Writing by Anders Whist. Photos by Miranda Whist.